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Kami Rita is a renowned Nepali mountaineer known for his exceptional achievements in climbing. He holds the world record for the highest number of successful ascents of Mount Everest, having reached its summit 28 times as of May 2023.
Wiki/Biography
Kami Rita was born on Saturday, 17 January 1970 (age 53 years; as of 2023) in Thame village in Namche VDC in the Solu-Khumbu region of Nepal. His zodiac sign is Capricorn. He started going to the school at the age of eight or nine years and was the first student at the Thame Primary School in Kumjung which was built by Sir Edmund Hillary’s Himalayan Trust. He studied up to the third standard and quit school after studying for four years. He later started going to the Thame Dechen Chokhorling monastery in his village at the age of sixteen and even thought about becoming a monk; however, he later quit the Monastery school as well and started working in local tourism.
Kami Rita in his 20s
He developed a love for the mountains at a young age and began his climbing career as a porter, carrying supplies and equipment for climbers on their way up the mountain. He learnt the skills of mountaineering and eventually became a climbing guide himself. As per one source, he started transporting goods to the Everest Base Camp by the age of twelve, and as per his brother Lhakpa Rita, his first work was in 1992 as an assistant to a cook at the Everest Base Camp.
Physical Appearance
Height (approx.): 5′ 6″
Weight (approx.): 65 kg
Hair Colour: Black
Eye Colour: Black
Family & Ethnicity
He belongs to a Nepali family of Tibetan origin.
Parents & Siblings
His father, Mingma Tshering Sherpa, was one of the first professional guides in the 1950s when Nepal allowed professional climbing on Mount Everest. His father’s career was cut short in 1992 when he suffered severe frostbite during an expedition. His mother’s name was Pasang Diki. He has six sisters and one elder brother Lakpa Rita (also spelt as Lhakpa Rita), who is also a renowned mountain climber. Three of his siblings passed away during infancy.
Kami Rita’s mother, his brother, and his father (left to right)
Kami Rita with his family
Wife & Children
His wife’s name is Lakpa Jangmu. The couple has a son named Lhakpa Sherpa and a daughter who has studied in Kathmandu and would not become a mountaineer like their father.
Kami Rita with his wife
Kami Rita with his wife and son (left)
Religion
He follows Buddhism.
Career
He reached the summit of Mount Everest for the first time on 13 May 1994 from S Col – SE Ridge.
Kami Rita on his first Mount Everest summit
He later climbed it from N Col – NE Ridge as well. In 2017, he became the third person to climb Mount Everest 21 times, the other two being Apa Sherpa and Phurba Tashi Sherpa. On 16 May 2018, he became the first person to climb Everest 22 times. On 14 May 2023, another guide, Pasang Dawa, equalled Kami Rita’s record of 26 Everest summits. On 17 May 2023, Kami Rita summited Everest for a record 27th time. On 23 May 2023, he climbed Everest for a record 28th time, making the maximum number of Everest summits by a climber. He also holds the record for the maximum number of climbs, 41 times, over 8000 metres, Cho-Oyu eight times in 2001, 2004, 2006, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014 and 2016, Lhotse once in 2011, and K2 once in 2014.
Kami Rita during a Mount Everest summit
He has also climbed Barungste, Amadablam, Manaslu, Annapurna IV, and Mt. Elburs peaks. After working at Alpine Ascents International, in May 2018, he started working for Seven Summit Treks. In 2018, he became the brand ambassador for the Nepalese cement company and advertised their product Brij Super Premium OPC. In August 2019, he became the Brand Ambassador and the Chief Adventure Consultant of Himalayan Glacier Adventure and Travel Company. He has often criticised the Nepalese government for not supporting Sherpas and said in an interview,
Our government hasn’t done much for us. We are famous around the world. Many foreigners know us, but our government doesn’t care about us.”
Kami Rita during a summit
Awards, Honours, Achievements
- Appreciation Letter by Nepal Mountaineering Association(NMA) in 1994
- Token of Appreciation by Rukmangad Katwal Trust in 2017
Kami Rita’s Token of Appreciation by Rukmangad Katwal Trust
- Incredible Mountaineer Award by Maharashtra Seva Sangh, Mulund in 2018
- Tenzing-Hillary Mountaineering Award in 2018
- The Brand Personality Award by Asia Pacific Brands Foundation in 2018
- Certificate of Felicitation by Tourism Entrepreneurs Association Nepal in 2018
Kami Rita with an award
- Vibhushan certificate by the Government of Nepal in 2019
- Appreciation Letter by Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal (TAAN) in 2019
- Appreciation Letter by Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP) in 2019
- Plaque of Honour by Himalayan Rescue Association Nepal in 2019
- Appreciation Letter by Province 1 in Nepal by 2019
- Vajra World Records for climbing Mount Everest 24 times in 2019
Kami Rita with Vajra World Records
- Appreciation Letter by Nepal Mountaineering Association(NMA) in 2019
- Goodwill Ambassador for Nepali Mountain Academy in 2020
- Brand Ambassador of Visit Nepal 2020
- International Sagarmatha (Everest) Award in 2021
- Appreciation Letter by New York State Assembly in 2021
- Appreciation Letter by Lumbini Bikas Bank Limited in 2021
Kami Rita receiving Appreciation Letter by Lumbini Bikas Bank Limited
- Appreciation Letter by Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality in 2022
- Certificate of COAS Commendation Badge in 2022
- Appreciation Letter by Expedition Operator’s Association Nepal in 2022
Kami Rita’s appreciation letter
- Certificate of Rope Fixing in 2022
- Guinness World Record for climbing Mount Everest 28th time on 23 May 2023
Kami Rita’s Guinness World Record
- Guinness World Record for maximum climbs over 8000-metre peaks (39 times) between 13 May 1994 and 7 May 2022
Income
In 2018, he was earning around $10,000 for each Everest climb.
Facts/Trivia
- He said in an interview that he wears a small Buddhist locket on his neck, filled with prayers and chants by Lama (Rinpoche).
Kami Rita in traditional Nepali dress
- His name Kami Rita has an interesting story behind it. As per his traditions, children are named on the day they are born; however, he had an elder brother who died, hence he was given the name Kami, meaning Blacksmith, to please the Gods. Rita, meaning his elder brother had passed, was also added to his name.
- In an interview, he said that he would never retire from mountain climbing and would continue to climb until his body permits.
- He has written a mini biographical ebook titled How to Climb Everest.
Kami Rita’s ebook